|
|
Post by alpinelover on Aug 26, 2009 22:00:42 GMT -5
I rebuilt the engine in my 75 MGB. Thing runs like a champ but it leaks oil aroung the rear seal. Can I replace the pan gaskets without pulling the engine again?
|
|
|
|
Post by pjones on Sept 12, 2009 23:55:17 GMT -5
Hey! Phil Jones here. Sorry to see no reply so far!
You can replace the oil pan gasket without pulling the engine; but it's not uncommon to leak around the (crankshaft) rear oil seal. On the A-series (Midget) engine, the rear crank seal surface has a "scroll", so that when the engine runs, it pulls oil in towards the engine. This "feature" is often a problem when there is positive crankcase pressure (the oil is expelled through every possible orifice!). I don't know off-hand if the B-series (MGA and MGB) engine has the same design - you may want to check your manual; and then double-check your crankcase venting.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes.
Phil
|
|
|
|
Post by velcro on Aug 8, 2010 10:08:37 GMT -5
I know it's been some time (Sept 09) and I hope you got the oil leak fixed. You didn't mentioned which engine you were talking about. The oil seal has to be oriented in he proper position. The best method to install the seal is to coat the perimeter with ordinary axle grease and make sure the open channel of the rubber flange is facing towards the inside of engine. When oil pressure puts pressure on the oil seal, the flexible rubber rim will expand forming a positive oil seal. That seal has to be installed exactly even and flush with the bearer plate. Any bending or twisting during installation will compromise the integrity of the seal. The crank end should be coated with grease also so when the bearer plate and seal are installed, the rubber lip of the seal will fit smoothly around the crankshaft. Do not allow the weight of the bearer plate with oil seal to rest against the crankshaft when installing the bearer plate. Put the half moon shaped seal retainer on and then coat the oil pan gasket with axle grease on both sides and install. Then you should have a "leak proof" MG engine.
If, at any time, the oil seal has been "hammered" into position and driven in too far, then discard it for a new one. I have seen some folks try to hammer the seal from the other side of the bearer plate to get it back in position. Worse yet would be to try and re-position the seal using some tool to pry it into the correct position. Always use a flat piece of soft wood with a ball peen hammer if a Bench Press is not available. As you already know, this procedure is critical. I found the end retainer collar from a set of weights that has the exact diameter of the seal and I was able to employ that steel collar to force the seal evenly into position.
(Just my opinion of course but I have successfully changed out many rear oil seals over 30 years and they worked great. Let us know how you fixed the oil leak problem.)
|
|
